Once upon a time Kemeri was the most noble part in Jurmala - rich people from far and near were coming here to take some rest in luxury summer cottages or improve their health in expensive health resorts.

Nowadays it is quite the opposite - Kemeri seems to be forgotten, partly abandoned and even a depressing place. However this does not mean that it is boring and paying a visit to this place is an unpleasant experience. On the contrary - You may spend here unforgottable day watching scores of architecture monuments and the magnificent park of Kemeri health resort. Most easy accessible sulphur-springs are also located here.

This route has not been put on the map, because You have unlimited number of options to find the roads, trails and pathways.

Already long ago people knew about a spring in Ķemeri forests that can bring back your helth. In 18th century they started to explore the forests ooking for the magic spring. Villagers from nearby Sloka were helping to find the way.

Ķemeri sulphur springs are truly unique. Rather often you will meet other kind of sulphur springs on this planet - created by geothermal processes near contemporary and recent volcanoes. These springs possess healing properties as well and there are large health resorts around them - e.g. in Italy, Slovakia, New Zealand.

But sulphur springs in Kemeri have been formed in different process. Here above the gypsum containing layer lies peat of Great Kemeri bog and other surrounding bogs. Acid marsh water and specific microorganisms are able to dissolve gypsum (which contains sulphur) and release sulphur in the water. Sulphur reacts with water and creates hydrogen sulphide. This unique groundwater slowly moves from Great Kemeri bog towards Kemeri, reaching maximum concentration in Kemeri. In many places it comes out to the surface, spreading the smell of rotten eggs and covering the soil with yellow sediments of sulphur. This geological process is extremely rare (so far there are no convincing proofs about similar processes elsewhere) and this sulphuric water has got unique healing properties.

At the beginning of 19th century active people became interested in those remote springs. In 1818 there was made the first chemical testing of this water. Soon afterwards there was started construction of health resorts. Kemeri health resort was officially founded in 1838 when state (at that time - the Russian Empire) donated for the development of resort. In 1877 there was built railway connecting Kemeri with Riga and further cities in Russian Empire. At this moment of history there started development of enormous, fancy health resort. Thousands of rich guests resided here for months, rewarding the developers of health resort with high fees. Health resort was developed and improved with enviable determination, scientists and physicians investigated and found new methods of healing, Kemeri turned into important centre of science and exquisite society. In 1912 there was built street tram connecting Kemeri and the beach in Jaunkemeri (does not exist today any more).

In 1928 Kemeri got the rights of town, it existed as separate town until 1959 when was included into Jurmala City. Inhabitants of Kemeri tell that even 20 years ago there was metropolitan feel in Kemeri - sidewalks were filled with people and the cultural life was very rich.

Present day reality in Kemeri however is sad - there has happened almost total collapse of healing resort industry. Once lively town has been partly abandoned now.

It seems, no other place in Latvia has been hit that hard by the recent changes in economics. Renewal of healing resort will be very hard and long work - and it seems that only some foreign investors are interested in this work now.

But - Kemeri still is very interesting destination in spite of economical collapse. There are beautiful buildings of different architecture styles, the planning of the town shows - here was health resort. One of the largest and most refined parks of Latvia is located in the central part of Kemeri.

It is certainly worth to see the following places:

1. Ķemeri Health Resort

This majestic building has been built in 1936. The architecture does not fit in one certain style (something of Functionalism, something of Art-Deco, and something of Neo-Classicism) - but it is one of the most splendid works of architect Eizens Laube. Initially it was built as a hotel but later turned into health resort. In the seemingly simple, majestic building there are several extremely ornate interiors - f.e. in dining room, library, in the “Pink lounge”.

More than 10 years ago state managed to find some investor who promised to bring back the former fame of Kemeri health resort.

This work has turned out to be very complex expensive and intransparent and currently no one really knows if or when to expect the opening of the first 5-star hotel in Jurmala city.

At this moment visitors can not enter this beautiful building.

2. "Kirzacina” (Lizard) - sulphur spring with pavilion

At the end of 19th century - beginning of 20th century there has been built this pavilion and sculpture of lizard above powerful sulphur spring.

This is good opportunity to taste sulphur water. Not tasty but not harmful either. If you would like to consume it in large quantities, you will “enjoy” the discharge of gas out of it... or out of you.

3. Kemeri procedural office and water tower

The real Kemeri health resort was located here. This large building contained numerous rooms for different medical procedures. Thousands of people from near and far countries regained their health here. Now the house is nearly abandoned, collapsing.

Since the beginning of 19th century the building became bigger and bigger. Nearby in 1929 there was built water tower of original design. Upper platform of water tower served as a viewpoint. Now it is not accessible for public.

Nowadays the buildings and watertower are in a very bad condition.

4. “Forest House”

A bit away from the Kemeri centre there was built refined restaurant with hotel rooms in 1933. The architecture of the building is not typical for Latvia - next to the moor there stands building which would fit more with Swiss mountains.

Initially the building had open terrace - but delicate guests soon found out the following: from the moor there came out multitude of mosquitoes about the nightfall. Staying in open terrace was intolerable so the terrace was glassed in and became part of the building.

This restaurant was true blessing for mosquitoes of Kemeri bog, facilitating the improvement of their living conditions. Thus the “Forest house” got nicknamed - “Merry mosquitoe”.

But the mosquitoes were not the only merry folks here.

Well-off and well-known gentleman headed towards the remote restaurant and were met by joyful ladies. It happened that journalists contemplated all this gaiety and shared their observations with other public. Then the gentleman were not that happy anymore.

Now there are different times - “Forest house” serves as headquarters for state institution - Kemeri National park.

Behind the “Forest house” there is an interesting tourism object located - Swamp Forest trail.

It is always interesting to have a short walk on it, byt we do suggest you to visit this trail in spring and take one of our guides- either the ornitologist or the botanistwith you.

5. Kemeri park and park architecture

Successful healing required long walks in fresh air. Thus thousands of health-resort visitors were strolling in Kemeri and vicinities every day.

For more comfortable and interesting walk there was created the enormous Kemeri park. Main works of planning and establishment were done by Riga City gardener M.Wagner at the end of 19th century. Park is very rich with small architecture - sculptures, pavilions, bridges. Rather large part of this wealth is still visible.

All the monuments listed up to now are located in Kemeri park.

6. Historical buildings in Kemeri

Between Kemeri railway station and health resort there is developing small town since the end of 19th century. Here were located ornate wooden summer cottages and hotels initially. Most of those buildings have perished unfortunately. Only few have survived up to this day - and even those have been transformed and the original architecture depleted.

Kemeri town is rich with valuable architecture from 20ies-30ies of 20th century now. While turning from one street to another you can find quite a few interesting buildings.

Related bicycle routes

• Kemeri - Antinciems - Lapmezciems - Bigaunciems - Jaunkemeri - Kemeri
• Kemeri - Sloka Lake - Kudra- Kemeri